I'm going to say it sure looks a lot like a 556 dual timer chip but then I don't read Russian well so can't say for sure.

@ e2matrix: Why do you only extract half the info out of individual posts?

Or maybe you have not checked the energetic forum after you posted there.

It was already posted what that chip is right before the datasheet info:

Chip you are referring to is not 555.
It is russian chip called к561лн2 which is Hex Inverting Buffer,
you can buy here : Купить Микросхема К561ЛН2

Datasheet:
http://radio-hobby.org/uploads/datasheets/k/k561ln2.pdf

If you use Crazy-Alex winding directions you won´t see much out of this.
I have wound several different coils and this did not couple too well.
Not sure if it´s because of a certain ferrite permeability which is more advantageous.
I guess no one here can report a different result?

@ e2matrix:

Please post attachments no larger than 800 x 600 or it messes up the page width.  I have re-sized it.

Thanks,

Bill

@ e2matrix: Why do you only extract half the info out of individual posts?

Or maybe you have not checked the energetic forum after you posted there.

It was already posted what that chip is right before the datasheet info:

If you use Crazy-Alex winding directions you won´t see much out of this.
I have wound several different coils and this did not couple too well.
Not sure if it´s because of a certain ferrite permeability which is more advantageous.
I guess no one here can report a different result?

Yep I just posted here before checking back there only to realize later there was more info.  Sorry - just posted what seemed relevant and wondered if anyone here knew more about that translated schematic.  Thanks for the info.

Sorry I didn't know as nearly all photos posted here go off my screen.  Normally I do try to keep things smaller kilobyte wise but the resolution on this was marginal so I put it up with only a small reduction in size from the original.  I'll keep 'em down from now on to 800x600.

Believe me, I understand.  I know we are limited here by the software for kb amount and I wish the software would also block the larger photos sizes like on some other sites.  You know, you try to post a photo and get "Your photo is too large, please re-size to 800x600", or something like that.  We get a warning on the kb size if too big, I just wish it was the same for size as well.

Bill

...
IF the MOT at nominal voltage is lossy due to core saturation and not shorted windings(with or without load) at e.g. half of nominal voltage will be probably quite efficient.
...

I hope so. I should get my variac this morning. When my MOT secondary is not connected, nonetheless its consumption is around 50W (I can light a 60W light bulb placed in series with the primary). I'm in France like JL Naudin with a main of 230V/50Hz. Although they are specified for such voltage limits, it seems that these asiatic products are badly engineered with undersized iron core or coil turns.

i was looking at Naudin's equipment for conducting his experiments.

The power meter is Energy Check 3000.
http://www1.conrad-uk.com (search it as Energy check 3000)
The particular device says that it can measure true RMS and distorted wave. By the way, it should operate pluged at mains.
We cannot be sure that if pluged at a variac it makes valid measurments.

Regarding Naudin's efficiencies
....

Assuming the Energy check 3000 meter says the truth. Apart from the SG optimazation, Naudin uses a Variac for optimal operation of MOT.
IF the MOT at nominal voltage is lossy due to core saturation and not shorted windings(with or without load) at e.g. half of nominal voltage will be probably quite efficient.

The Voltage doubler function of the cap assures that the SG works anyways and to half input voltage. 1.2-0.9mm requires some 2-3 Kv to break. A MOT of nominal 220v input, and 2KV out, at 110volts from variac will reach probably 1KV out. This way, the cap can store phase 1 and during phase 2 to reach 2KV.
Bottom line i think a variac is a must.

Here is another quote from JLN which maybe relevant to your assertions.

"The use of the Variac is required because I have noticed that during the startup, when I turn the Knob, the input power climb up to 900 W and then when the spark begins to start after few second the power drops while the lamps begins to bright, at this moment, the Variac knob need to turn back to lower the input power to about 210 Watts and remains stable."

Hi all

Here is my setup. It is not an accurate duplication. My goal is to test the elementary phenomena involved and to evaluate methods for measuring the in/out powers.

I put a 0.75 ohm resistance in series with the MOT primary. With two probes connected on each pin and the oscilloscope operating in differential mode, I can monitor the input current. It is rather sinusoidal but there are also very high frequency components that superpose. See photo below. The voltage provided through the variac was around 90v.

Then I wanted to do the same on the output, by connecting the resistance between the earth and the light bulbs, in order to see the output current with the same method. But inexplicably the oscilloscope trace remained flat. I have to investigate what was wrong.

I used 2 earths. One is that of the house, that comes with the electric plugs. The other is the earth for a shortwave radio station (8 mtrs of copper wire buried 10-15 cm under ground). There is 30 ohm between the 2 earths. I don't know the distance.
The variac that I bought monday is very useful. I encourage all experimenters to use one. I have still a spark with only 75v.

My next step is to succeed in monitoring the output current.


 

@Exnihiloest,

Nice equipment. Cannot see the coil though? Perhaps starting taking measurements without a kapagen like coil, then adding one and see difference?